A Collector’s Guide to Hummel Figurines Marks

That little stamp on the bottom of your Hummel figurine? It's not just a logo—it's a time capsule. These Hummel figurines marks are your single best clue to figuring out a piece's age, authenticity, and, of course, its potential value. Learning to read them is the first real step you take from just having a Hummel to truly collecting them.

Telling the Story from the Bottom Up

This guide is designed to help you do just that—read the story your figurine is telling. We'll walk through the entire timeline of marks, from the very first TMK-1 to the stamps used today, and you'll see how each change reflects a specific period in the Goebel company's long history. Think of it as learning the secret language of your collectibles.

It doesn’t matter if you inherited a whole collection or just found a single piece at a yard sale; knowing what you're holding is everything. As with any collectible, the markings on pottery reveal so much about its journey. For Hummels, that little bee, crown, or company name on the underside is your primary tool for identification.

What We'll Cover Here

I'll give you a practical, hands-on way to identify, date, and authenticate your figurines. We're going to dive into:

• The Complete Mark Timeline: We’ll go through every major trademark (known as a "TMK") from 1935 to the present day, one by one.
• How Marks Affect Value: You'll see exactly why a TMK-2 "Adventure Bound" can be worth thousands more than a TMK-6 version of the very same figurine.
• Other Markings to Look For: It’s not just about the main trademark. We’ll also look at mold numbers, artist initials, and other small details that tell a bigger story.
• Spotting Fakes and Reproductions: I’ll point out the common red flags that help you separate a genuine Goebel Hummel from a convincing copy.

Collectors tend to prize the first three Hummel trademarks—the TMK-1, TMK-2, and TMK-3—above all others. These marks represent the earliest, and often the rarest, years of production, making them highly sought after.

A Quick Look at the Marks

Before we get into the nitty-gritty, here’s a quick-reference table to get you started. It lays out the main Hummel trademarks and the years they were used.

Think of this as your cheat sheet. Each mark tells a chapter of the Goebel story, shaped by everything from World War II to changes in company ownership.

While this table is a great starting point, the real fun is in the details—the small variations and historical context behind each stamp. Learning to spot the difference between them is probably the most valuable skill any Hummel collector can have.

A Journey Through Hummel Marks: 1935 to Today

Think of the Hummel figurines marks as a secret code etched into the bottom of each piece. Once you learn to decipher them, you can unlock the story of when and where your figurine was made. Every shift in the trademark, or TMK, reflects a specific chapter in the Goebel factory's history.

Let's walk through this timeline together.

TMK-1: The Crown Mark (1935–1949)

This is where it all began. If you find this mark, you're holding a true piece of history. The TMK-1 is easy to spot because it features a crown sitting above the intertwined "WG" for W. Goebel, the original manufacturer.

You'll see this mark either stamped in ink or, more commonly, incised directly into the porcelain. Goebel was still figuring out its branding, so you'll often find "Germany" stamped nearby. A clear Crown Mark tells you the figurine was created either right before WWII or in the years just after—a hugely significant period.

TMK-2: The Full Bee (1950–1959)

Ask any seasoned collector about the most iconic mark, and they'll likely point to the "Full Bee." The TMK-2 shows a bee buzzing inside a large letter "V," which stands for Verkaufsgesellschaft, the German word for a distribution company.

This mark represents the golden age when Hummels first captured America's heart. GIs stationed in West Germany started sending these charming figures home, and a collecting phenomenon was born.

The real giveaway for a TMK-2 is the bee itself. It’s quite detailed and realistic—you can make out its wings, stripes, and even antennae. This level of detail sets it apart from the simplified bees that came later.

It's fascinating to see how the Hummel figurines marks tell the story of a production legacy that has now spanned nearly 90 years. The timeline is packed with historical clues. Production started in 1935 with the TMK-1 and was already hitting 1 million units annually by 1940. But then WWII brought everything to a halt, which is why those pre-1949 pieces are so much harder to find.

Once production resumed, the TMK-2 (1950-1959) era saw Hummels take off in the U.S., setting the stage for Goebel's peak production years. For a deeper dive into this history, you can find more fascinating details about the Hummel figurine production timeline on drloriv.com.

TMK-3: The Stylized Bee (1960–1972)

When the 1960s rolled around, Goebel decided to modernize its logo. The bee was simplified, losing its realistic details for a cleaner, more graphic look. This "Stylized Bee" is the key to identifying a TMK-3.

The bee is now just a simple circle with sharp, triangular wings. You might see a few variations during this period, with the "W. Germany" text appearing in different spots around the V. This mark was used for over a decade, a time when Goebel was incredibly prolific.

• Small Stylized Bee: The V is large, but the bee inside is quite small.
• Large Stylized Bee: Here, both the V and the bee are noticeably bigger.
• Three Line Mark (TMK-4): Often considered its own category but frequently appeared alongside the TMK-3.

TMK-5: The Last Bee Mark (1972–1979)

In the 1970s, the company made another big branding change. They dropped the iconic "V" but kept the bee. The TMK-5, known to collectors as "The Last Bee," simply shows the stylized bee floating above the "Goebel" name.

You'll usually see "W. Germany" printed next to or below it. Figurines from this era are quite common, as they were made when Hummel collecting was at the height of its popularity.

Later Marks: 1979 and Beyond

After 1979, the little bee flew away for good, and the marks began to focus solely on the Goebel company name.

• TMK-6 The Missing Bee (1979–1991): A very straightforward and common mark. It just features the name "Goebel" with "W. Germany" printed underneath.
• TMK-7 The Goebel Mark (1991–2000): After German reunification, "W. Germany" was logically updated to "Germany." The Goebel name is still prominent, and you’ll sometimes see the old crown symbol make a comeback.
• TMK-8 The Final Goebel Mark (2000–2008): In a touching tribute during Goebel’s final production years, the bee made one last brief appearance, this time perched right on top of the company name.

Nailing down the correct TMK is always your first move. It’s the key to accurately dating your figurine and starting to piece together its unique place in the long and charming history of these collectibles.

How Marks Influence a Hummel's Value

Now that you can tell the different Hummel figurines marks apart, let's get to the part everyone wants to know about: what are they actually worth? That little trademark on the bottom isn't just a fun fact; it's arguably the single most important detail in determining a figurine's value.

If you remember one thing, make it this: older is almost always better in the Hummel world.

It all boils down to scarcity. Figurines stamped with early marks like the TMK-1 (Crown Mark) and TMK-2 (Full Bee) were made in far smaller numbers compared to the boom years later on. History played a big part, too. Production famously stopped during World War II, which created a natural shortage and makes any piece from before 1949 a real find.

Why Early Marks Command Higher Prices

When you find a figurine with a TMK-2 mark, you're holding a piece of post-war history. These are from the 1950s, a time when American GIs started sending them home as precious gifts. The supply was tight, and the hand-painting was often done with incredible care.

Fast forward to the 1970s and '80s—the era of TMK-5 and TMK-6—and you've got a totally different story. Hummels were wildly popular, and Goebel ramped up production to meet the huge demand. That's why these later figurines are so much more common and, as a result, less valuable to serious collectors today.

A perfect example is the famous "Adventure Bound" figurine (HUM 347). Find one with an early TMK-2 mark, and it could be valued anywhere from $6,000 to $9,000. The exact same figurine with a common TMK-5 mark? You might be looking at around $600. The design is identical, but the decades between them make a world of difference in price.

For a deeper look into what drives the collectibles market, our complete antique value guide is a great resource.

Value Comparison of Hummel Figurines by Mark (TMK)

To see just how much a mark can affect the bottom line, here’s a quick comparison. We'll use a few well-known figurines to illustrate the dramatic value difference between an early mark and a later one.

As you can see, the gap is huge. This is why accurately identifying the mark is the essential first step for any collector or seller.

The Impact of Rarity Illustrated

The entire value system for Hummels pivots on that mark. While it's true that many common Hummels have lost value over time, pieces with the TMK-1 or TMK-2 stamps are in a class of their own. They hold their value far better simply because fewer of them exist.

Some of the most extreme examples are the large "Apple Tree Girl" and "Boy" sets (#141/X and #142/X). If you're lucky enough to have a set from the 1950s, it could command a staggering $26,000 per piece. On the flip side, figurines made after 1970 with TMK-4 or later marks are often sold in bulk lots, sometimes fetching as little as $35-$45 for a group of 7-10 common figures. You can find more insights on the fluctuating values of Hummel figurines on aroundtheblock.com.

The takeaway is simple: the earlier the trademark, the greater the potential value. A TMK-1 is the holy grail for many, representing the very genesis of Hummel production and a level of rarity that later marks simply cannot match.

Whether you're insuring a family heirloom, thinking about selling, or just curious about your collection, understanding the mark is key. It tells you the era, and the era tells you the all-important story of supply and demand.

Looking Beyond the Trademark

The trademark is your starting point, but it's just the first clue in a much bigger story. To really get to know your figurine, you have to play detective and do a full "forensic" analysis of its base. This means looking beyond the main TMK to all the other little details pressed into the porcelain.

These extra markings are what separate a quick ID from a true collector's appraisal. They add crucial context about the figurine's design, its production run, and even the specific artists who worked on it. Think of the TMK as the year a car was made; these other marks are like the VIN, telling you the exact model, factory, and features.

Deciphering the Incised Numbers

Take a look at the base of almost any genuine Hummel. You'll find a mold number etched, or incised, right into the porcelain. This number, often shortened to just "HUM," is the unique identifier for that specific design. For example, if you have the beloved "Not for You" figurine, its mold number will always be HUM 317.

That number stays with the design for its entire life. A HUM 317 made in the 1950s with a TMK-2 mark will have the same mold number as one made in the 1980s with a TMK-6. It’s the figurine’s permanent ID.

You might also spot a slash followed by another number or a Roman numeral. A classic example is HUM 142/I, which identifies a medium-sized "Apple Tree Boy." This little addition is a size indicator. Pay close attention to this, as larger versions of a figurine are often much rarer and more valuable.

Artist Marks and Other Symbols

Now, look even closer for smaller, often handwritten marks. These are usually the painter's initials or a personal symbol they used. It's a small, human touch from the artist who hand-painted your figurine. While these marks don't typically add a ton of monetary value, they give the piece a wonderful, personal history.

On figurines produced after 1991, you might also find a production year code. This is usually a small date etched near the TMK that tells you the exact year the piece was made, which takes a lot of the guesswork out of dating more modern pieces.

The most dedicated collectors know that a complete analysis of the base is essential. A combination of a clear TMK, a legible mold number, and other production marks is the ultimate sign of an authentic, well-documented piece.

Finally, always keep an eye out for rare and unusual markings. The most famous is the ‘red-line’ stamp, which was used to mark factory prototypes or samples. These were never meant to be sold to the public, so finding one is an exceptional treat. These unique marks are a huge part of what gives Hummel figurines their value.

A special stamp can turn an ordinary find into a major discovery. For instance, a red-line sample of 'Not for You' (HUM 317) could be valued at $2,995. To learn more about how these details influence price, you can find great information about Hummel figurines and their worth on truelegacyhomes.com.

How to Spot a Fake Hummel Figurine

As with any popular collectible, fakes are out there. It’s an unfortunate reality of the hobby, but the good news is that Hummel reproductions are often quite easy to spot once you know what to look for. Your first and best clue is almost always the quality of the hummel figurines marks on the bottom.

A real Goebel trademark should be crisp and clean. When you turn a piece over, look for sharp lines and clear text. If the bee in the logo is blurry, the lettering is smudged, or the whole mark just looks sloppy, you should be suspicious. Forgers rarely get the precise stamping and incising techniques down perfectly.

Examine the Craftsmanship and Detail

Beyond the trademark, get a feel for the figurine itself. Authentic Hummels are known for their incredible attention to detail, from the careful hand-painting to the expressive faces.

• Facial Features: Look closely at the eyes, mouth, and those famous rosy cheeks. Are they painted with precision? Fakes often have a rushed, messy quality to the faces, completely missing that classic Hummel warmth.
• Color Palette: Goebel used a very specific, almost muted color palette. If the colors on a figurine seem overly bright, garish, or just don't feel right for the era, trust your gut.
• Physical Weight: An authentic Hummel has a certain heft to it because it's made of high-quality porcelain. Many reproductions are made from cheaper materials like plaster, making them feel surprisingly light.

Developing this kind of hands-on sense is a crucial skill for any collector. These same principles can help you evaluate other treasures, a topic we cover more broadly in our guide on how to spot fake antiques.

The secret to authentication isn't finding one perfect feature; it's seeing how they all work together. A single element, like a clear TMK, can be forged. But when that clear mark is combined with a properly incised mold number, high-quality painting, and the correct weight, you can feel confident you're holding the real deal.

Distinguishing Look-Alikes from Fakes

It's also worth noting that not every similar-looking piece is an outright fake. Many other German and even Japanese companies made figurines of cherubic children in the mid-20th century. These are often called "Hummel-style" pieces. They can be charming in their own right, but they aren't genuine Hummels and shouldn't command the same price.

The easiest way to tell them apart is to look for the M.I. Hummel signature incised on the base, usually near the Goebel trademark. This signature is a tribute to Sister Maria Innocentia Hummel and is a non-negotiable mark of authenticity. If that signature is missing, you're holding a look-alike, not a counterfeit Hummel.

Got More Questions About Hummel Marks?

Even after a close look at the bottom of your figurine, you might still be scratching your head. That’s perfectly normal. I’ve seen seasoned collectors get stumped by an unusual mark, so you're in good company. Let’s tackle some of the most common questions that pop up.

What if My Hummel Figurine Has No Mark at All?

It’s a bit jarring to find a figurine with no trademark, but don't immediately jump to the conclusion that it's a fake. There are a couple of things that could be going on.

Over many decades, especially on a piece that's been loved and handled, an ink stamp can simply wear away completely. Grab a magnifying glass and some good light, and check again for any faint traces or incised numbers you might have overlooked. If the craftsmanship still feels right—the weight, the detail, the classic Hummel colors—you could have a very early or unusual piece on your hands. This is the perfect time to get a second opinion from a professional.

Does a Crazed Finish Hurt My Figurine's Value?

Crazing, that fine web of tiny cracks you see in the glaze, is a natural part of aging for most ceramics. Whether it impacts the value really comes down to how rare the figurine is.

• For common pieces: If you have a popular figurine from the 1970s or '80s, heavy crazing will definitely lower its value. Why? Because there are plenty of pristine examples out there for collectors to choose from.
• For rare pieces: On the other hand, for a very early TMK-1 or TMK-2 from before 1950, a little light crazing is often expected and easily forgiven.

The big takeaway here is that context is everything. For a true "holy grail" find, collectors are buying its history and rarity, not just its perfection. For a common piece, condition is king.

How Can I Tell the Difference Between a TMK-3 and a TMK-4?

Ah, the big one. This is easily one of the trickiest spots in the Hummel timeline. The Stylized Bee (TMK-3) and the Three Line Mark (TMK-4) were both used during the 1960s, sometimes at the same time, and they can look incredibly similar.

The main giveaway is usually the "W. Germany" text.

• On a TMK-3, you'll typically see the text tucked right into the V-shaped bee logo itself.
• With the TMK-4, the company name and country are usually presented in three separate, centered lines right next to the logo.

But since variations are common, my best advice is to always have a reliable identification guide handy to compare your mark side-by-side if you're not 100% sure.

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Feeling a little lost in the details? Let Curio take the guesswork out of it. Just snap a photo, and our app can help you identify marks, learn your figurine's history, and get a quick appraisal. Uncover the story behind your treasures at https://www.curio.app.